The latest posts from Total Survivalist Blog
- I've done this and think it's a great idea. I have several buckets and a couple bags at various friends houses. Cheap kit that's theirs if they need it. All I really added that you don't have is a change of clothes (several weights of socks) and a rain jacket of some sort. I also tossed in a couple of those draw string style backpack/gym bags that I obtained free from various places. That way I can carry the gear if I'm without my regular kit, or a second person can divide the load with me.
Ryan here: A bag to carry the stuff is a good idea. Depending on space in the bucket after I add the planned stuff a set of clothes is a decent idea.
- Don't go with the Tampons or anything of that ilk for a medical kit. Just as cost effective and actually works are ABD pads, 7.09$ prime shipping from Amazon. There are quite a few studies out there that advise people not to use feminine hygiene products for trauma. Tampons and Pads are used to soak up the blood and clot it internally where as an ABD pad and gauze are made to speed clotting.
Kerlix or Rolled Gauze, ABD pads and Gorilla tape are all low cost and effective first aid supplies. They might cost you a little more than a box of tampons but it works so much better. Throw in some triangular bandages with safety pins, a couple of pairs of gloves and you have a good low cost medical kit that you can make work for a lot of trauma situations.
These three items are what a little over 30$ from amazon and you can make six kits out of it, Two kerlix rolls, two Triangular bandages and say 4 abd pads, wrap some duct tape around a Bic pen (Cut pen to length) or a hotel key card, add a key ring or small carabiner to use with the triangular bandage as a windlass for an impromptu tourniquet. Seal in a zip-lock or vacuum bag, say 10$ top per kit for a good basic trauma setup.
Ryan here: 1) My planned medical budget is like $3. I have an IFAK in my primary gear so the traumatic injury piece of the medical kit is an after thought. All joking aside I will look at budget options before going completely white trash IFAC.
- Some oatmeal, rice, lentils, split peas and/or beans - cheap food.
A small pot from a garage sale or dollar store.
Ryan here: I fear I didn't explain my plans correctly. I am not looking to hang out for any period of time. My goal is to have enough consumables to eat a good meal, maybe lie up for a few hours and then walk for another day.
In terms of food I am looking at calorie dense stuff that is ready to go but better if you heat it up. Something like a couple each of canned food, top ramen, oatmeal and tuna. Also probably a dozen granola bars for go food. I will not have the time or energy to boil up a pot of beans.
- Anonymous said...
- 5 pounds flour, pint powdered milk, salt, baking powder - make bannock, gravy. Gill net - sure way to get fish. A few rounds of ammo for each of your weapons. Fire starter kit. Knife. Oil for weapons. Small tools.
Ryan here: See the last post. I like where you are going for a survival cache but this is much more of a resupply of consumables to go a few more miles. As to the food I'm not going to cut a nice stick, start a fire and make some bannock. Heating up some ramen or chili is about the max amount of effort I would consider. As to the gill net I am not looking to sustain over the long term. Do not need tools to gather food, I need enough water and calories to get a few more miles down the road.
- Anonymous said...
- I'm thinking a good multi-tool over a tool kit, though a small pair of ignition pliers is a very versatile lightweight addition. The string pack idea likewise is good - you want something that appears 'sheeple friendly'.
Maybe a couple of 5 hour energy shots ? I don't know their shelf life though. A water filter straw would also be a wise choice as well.
Good ideas above - thank you for the post!
Ryan here: I'm not too worried about tools past a knife as my concept of use is on foot. Agree an option to carry the stuff is a good idea. A couple 5 hours or some caffeine pills is a good idea I will use.
- TEOTWAWKI Blog / Alexander Wolfsaid...
- A lot depends on your route/plans. Traveling over land through forest/swamp would be different from traveling through urban or suburban turf, etc.
Distance / time needed to sustain you would be important.
Most of the time, you'd have your vehicle with you - at least to start out. Make sure at least your vehicle kit is squared away before worrying about caching stuff. Your vehicle = a cache on wheels.
- Ryan here: I'll probably talk about this later but I have 4 plans to get home (PACE). The primary is my normal route. The alternate is a mounted route entirely separate from the first route to one general side of it. The contingency route is a mounted route entirely separate from the first two routes to the other general side of the alternate route.
- Obviously utilizing my vehicle would be ideal. It is difficult to foresee a situation where I couldn't make it over a few dozen miles of rural land and small towns with three different routes mapped out. Still since the first scenarios (drive home) are easy paying some attention to the least pleasant and most difficult one makes some sense to me. In addition to my get home bag and the naked bag that sits by it the daily commuter has a variety of various work gear, probably 3 days of full meals, a couple gallons of water, a good first aid kit and a wool blanket.
- The emergency route is dismounted. It is fairly direct but off the most major lines of drift. Since I would be on foot with basic navigation skills, a compass, map and general knowledge of the AO my options to move around obstacles are pretty good.
- The general flow of my Emergency route is mostly through commercial (lumber) forests, near some small hobby farms and nearby a village or two. Depending on the exact situation I might go through more efforts to stay out of the villages. The goal for the cache is to let me eat for a little while while I took a rest and for another dozen(ish) miles of marching.
- Well I hope that clears up my goal with the bucket cache. With the concept of use more readily defined if you all have any thoughts I'm interested in hearing them.
I achieved the American Dream and it was awful
Our friend Harry notes that OPSEC Matters
The concept of use is a pre positioned resupply of water and some food en route. Sort of a logistical speedball that is sitting ready to go. Water is darn heavy and you genuinely need it to survive.
I plan to put a gallon or a gallon and a half of water in the cache.
Also mostly because I'm putting something together anyway I want to include some food, medical stuff and other basic survival doo dads. Since weight/ bulk is not at a premium the food will probably be a few MRE's as well as a couple cans and some granola bars or something. The medical will likely be some ghetto trauma stuff (think tampon and duct tape) as well as a few each of pepto, benadryl and Tylenol and some baby wipes. The survival stuff will probably be a couple contractor bags, a hundred feet of 550 cord, a Morakniv Companion Fixed Blade Outdoor Knife with Sandvik Stainless Steel Blade, Black, 4.1-Inch, a lighter and a couple ranger bands.
My intent is to put this mostly together from stuff I already have. I'll have to purchase a thing or two but the total cost should be under $25 most of which is the knife.
Hey folks, I was inspired by Alexander Wolfe of T Blog's recent sale of a bunch of stuff to turn it into something good and am looking to do a bit of garage clearing out. I'm looking to sell a bunch of stuff and plan to offer it to you all before doing a broader listings.
For sale will be a knife, a couple water filters, some holsters, pouches, slings and random stuff.
My goal is to make enough money to buy an optic for an undisclosed project. I would like to make enough cash to buy an Aimpoint micro or at least get most of the way there and save the rest.
Anyway I want to run something by you all before I take pics and list stuff here for you all.
A lot of the stuff I have to sell are fairly low priced items. If for example I sold a pouch (which cost me $20-25) for $10 and paid $5 to ship it to you that would not be cost effective. At the same time if I build in the cost of shipping to every item prices will be pretty inflated. Even though you would pay that added cost for a new item anyway the sticker shock is a problem.
Here is my tentative plan. List stuff at reasonable prices (50-85% of new price depending on condition and such) that are fair for both parties. For purchases less than $50 a $10 charge will be added for shipping so I do not lose my shirt to shipping on small sales. For purchases over $50 I will foot the bill for shipping.
As the perspective purchasers how does that sound to you?
Personally I have two. I have a level 2.5 assault pack/ get home bag (old bag shown as the new one is pending a post) and a bug out bag. We also have some stuff in the family hauler and there is a BOB for Wifey. I don't really plan on adding any more kits unless they are for caches. A cache like Meisters 'Minute Man Cache with a rifle, pistol and BOB would be awesome.
My first thought was a 4 letter word. My second was that I seemed to be OK. My third thought was "Could this be my fault?" After realizing I was in a turn lane and stopped there was no way being read ended could possibly be seen as my fault. I got out of the road into a parking lot and the other vehicle followed. I was pretty hot when I got out of my vehicle probably due to adrenalin. The guy was immediately apologetic about the whole thing which calmed it down fast, since he wasn't being a jerk I chilled out also. He said he swerved to avoid something or another and boom we had a crash.
After getting out to look at it my vehicle was OK. The bumper was a bit out of whack but I figured I'd be able to put it back in place. Their vehicle was OK also. I felt fine. Copied down all their information and whatever. Aside from the bumper being slightly off whack there was a small mark from paint transfer on my bumper.
I told the guy that it didn't seem like a big deal. So long as I could put the bumper back in place and didn't wake up with a wrecked back or something we could call it even; I didn't see a reason to deal with insurance and cost some decent guy a bunch of money just for a mark and a little scratch or two. If it was a Lamborghini or a Chevelle SS maybe I might look at the matter differently but for a normal commuter vehicle I don't see the reason to bother.
This week I found an excellent opportunity then capitalized on it. There are some items I keep an eye out for and will always purchase at the right price. The keys to doing good at this sort of thing are regularly checking on available items, having the cash to buy a good deal on no notice when it pops up and patience. Every once in awhile if you do all that stuff a smoking deal will fall into your lap.
I have taken to carrying my Benchmade Griptillian on the left hand side. This puts it in the ideal place if I get in the dreaded fighting while trying to retain my handgun situation. Having it there all the time gets me used to grabbing it and opening it with my left hand. Not perfect but in terms of a real world knife fight it is big muscle movements that manifest their selves in a lot of close short stabs and it leaves my strong hand to retain my weapon.
I have also taken to sharpening my knife weekly. Better to keep up on it then let it get dull. My current drill is that on Friday when I'm having a drink and watching whatever show I am watching the knife gets a quick touch up. My Benchmade Griptillian is pretty darn sharp these days.
James Yeagers bug out trailer is something I have been thinking about a lot.
That being said my plan will differ from James Yeagers because I have a smaller vehicle that can haul less weight and probably a lot tighter budget. Also significantly Wifey agreed in principle to this project, which is a serious conciliation to team paranoia (me), under the condition that we set it up so it looks decent. This means painting the walls, laying down some flooring, etc.
Basically the concept is as follows:
Purchase a smallish enclosed cargo trailer, probably a 6x10.
Maybe add insulation, paint the walls and put in some linoleum or something.
Add some shelving and at least one bed.
Put on some sort of an awning under which we could put out some chairs and cook, etc even if it was raining.
Our intent (Wifeys idea actually) is to have it set up so we could conceivably go camping on a moments notice. So that means having clothes, cook ware, dishes, bedding, hygiene stuff, etc that is distinct from our normal household stuff all pre positioned ready to go.
I would like (though funds do not currently exist to do so) to add a decent solar setup and a battery bank. At least enough to run some basic 12 volt lights, change a thing or two and run a couple fans.
We do not plan to add a shower, bathroom or inside kitchen. Space is at a premium given that we can't haul a huge trailer, have 2 big dogs and 2 kids.
Anyway that is the plan as of now. We will see what develops.
With these unexpected gains we are looking at purchasing a trailer. Something enclosed either a cargo trailer or just maybe a small camper if we can find one light enough that is still in the budget. This would greatly aid in traveling and camping with 2 kids and 2 big dogs. It would also really be handy in a variety of preparedness type situations. More research will be done and we will talk more later. Exciting times.
The first category is concept of use. It took a lot of consideration to put this one first. The reason is that it is going to decide the general type of weapons you are going to be looking into.
I will explain in a brief tangent. A gun can be great but entirely wrong for what you want it to do. A Glock 22 is the pistol most likely to be in an LEO's holster in any town USA. A fishermen in Alaska might very well be packing a Ruger or S&W .44 mag. A normal guy down in Florida who wants a discrete summer CCW piece he doesn't need to dress around might be packing a tiny .380 like a Ruger LCP. Lets say they all rotate leaving the fishermen with the Glock 40, the cop with the Ruger LCP and the guy down in Florida with the big ole .44 mag. Obviously this is a big old ball of fail.
Think of it like walking into a big well stocked gun store. The fishermen would go to the racks of big bore revolvers, specifically the double action ones. The LEO would gravitate to the racks of semi automatic pistols specifically looking at the compact and full sized models. The guy from Florida would go look at the smaller semi automatic pistols and revolvers.
While you obviously need to look at the general type of weapons that fit your need I would urge against being TOO SPECIFIC. The reason for this is a tendency to create artificially specific requirements to lead you down a path to a gun you want and feel justified in getting whatever you want. One might say this is fine. I disagree for two reasons. First people do not look to justify a decision they inherently know is sound. They are looking to justify a decision because it is too expensive, entirely unneeded or has other various downsides. Second by putting these arbitrary specific criteria at the beginning of the selection process (vs at the end) they may come to a conclusion that has some fundamental problems.
The second category is reliability. Guns owned to save your life in an emergency need to be reliable. I'm not talking 'this gun is reliable if it has been cleaned the day before, is lubricated just so and has special ammunition made of unicorn horns and big foot bones' but under all manner of conditions.
Generally the easiest way to get this is to buy a firearm made to a professional standard. As such it might not be a bad idea to look at weapons used by the military (not just ours) and law enforcement. I don't want to get into any arguments but we're talking big, quality companies like Ruger, Glock, Smith and Wesson, Remington, Sig Sauer, H&K, etc. Avoid fly by night manufacturers and 'price point' brands. Of course even the lowest end Saturday Night Special manufacturer probably, if just by luck, managed to put out a couple guns that work really well. If you happen to have one of those then rock with it. That being said generally after one digs into the 'my Ghetto Blaster Pimptastic Model' works perfectly they find the gun is actually used very little. They haven't tested their guns enough for anything to happen.
Next comes commonality. Commonality of manufacturer, model and chambering. There are a lot of reasons for this. The biggest single one is that common manufacturers/ models and cartridges are common for a reason. Glock hasn't sold millions of 9mm Glock 17's because it is a piece of junk. Winchester Model 94 30-30 stood the test of time and stayed in production for over a century because they were great rifles and people loved them.
Additionally commonality of a weapon tends to mean more accessories, holsters, custom parts, etc are available for that weapon. Pretty much every holster company makes every model for say a Glock 17 or Sig P226. You can't say that about a Broomhandled Mauser.
Commonality also goes a long way in showing you what sort of support there is for a firearm. Support in terms of spare parts should something break, continued availability of mags, etc all is largely dictated by a weapons commonality. It is a lot easier to find a spring or pin for an AR-15in 5.56 than for an FN-FAL in 280 British.
These are considerations for any firearm owner. A preparedness inclined person is going to weigh availability (which is linked to commonality) of mags and spare parts a whole lot higher than a normal shooter. In an ugly situation I would be able to find say a spare part for an AK-47 or a Glock 17 9mm in my community. It would be a big hassle and I would pay dearly for it, which is why I stock spare parts, but I could get it. On the other hand if the guns were a new boutique rifle in 6.8 and a Makarov pistol there might not be spare parts within 500 miles which I would not be able to find them in an emergency or realistically get them. Commonality and the ability to trade/ cross level/ scavenge parts/ mags has been weighted heavily for me in recent years and has been a seriously limiting factor in my weapons choices.
Hate to be a buzz kill but affordability matters. We all have budgets and competing demands. I believe owning good modern weapons is important but we have to be realistic. If you are on a $500 Glock/ S&W M&P/ Springfield XD budget there isn't much point in looking at $950 stainless steel SIGs, let alone 3k custom 1911's.
Look beyond the cost of the gun. Consider the cost of mags, spare parts, ammo, etc all to equip the gun however you deem necessary. For example for a fighting pistol like my Glock 19 I like to have at least 10 mags and 1,000 rounds of ammo. The cost difference figured this way between say my G19 and an H&K .45 is going to be significant.
Awhile back Commander Zero broke down exactly how long it would take to save enough money for a Glock and an AR-15 earning just minimum wage. A couple months of delivering Pizza's a few shifts a week after work would do it. Granted that would suck but if you really want some decent guns and money is tight it would be a way to do it.
Personal Preference comes last. We have already narrowed down the pool of potential options that fit our concept of use to reliable, fairly common models within our budget. Now we can look within those options and make personal preference decisions.
James Yeager talks personal preference. In short he thinks it is a bunch of crap. I agree with Mr. Yeagers general point that personal preference can be taken to extremes. In some circles it is an 'everyone is a unique and special snowflake' sort of thing. This is doubly true with inexperienced shooters. The truth is that your unique choice might in fact be stupid.
Where I disagree with Mr Yeager is that, within an intentionally selected pool of options I see no issue with people making choices based on personal preference. Maybe a person is in the market for a defensive shotgun and logically narrowed their choices down to the Mossberg 500 and Remington 870. Say that person is a lefty so they go for the Mossberg 500 whose controls are easier to handle. Say a perspective LEO was looking for a duty weapon and for the sake of this discussion he had free reign to carry any non single action compact or full sized 9mm, 40 S&W or .45 acp .That young man might handle all of those pistols and rent the three or four he liked best to shoot.
So to close out on personal preference I do believe personal preference has a valid role in firearm selection so long as it is within a pool of weapons that meet some logical pre determined criteria.
Anyway I hope this gives you a way to think about future purchases and hopefully save the hassle of buying the wrong gun(s).
This new Lehigh round penetrates like an FMJ with better temporary and permanent wound cavities.
It bears serious consideration. Once I've done a little more research and have some jingle in my pocket I'll probably buy a couple boxes.
This chart of Russia's Military presence in the Arctic is interesting. Looks like they are setting conditions to dominate a future resource grab up there.
GEN (RET) Petraeus talks the Islamic State, Iraq and Iran. Considering he is the jedi master of COIN and (as much as any one person possibly could) our success, if only temporary, in Iraq can be attributed to him I listen when the man talks.
Larry Vickers breaking down the famous Collateral 'briefcase scene'. That has been one of my favorite movie gun fight scenes for awhile. Larry's breakdown of the scene is worth watching.
-Never order someone to do something you will not do yourself. Once my commander, a Major, cleaned up human feces with an e tool because he wouldn't order anyone else to do it.
-Following on the first point never give an order you do not think there is a good chance your people will follow. Either you seem out of touch or like a complete a hole for no reason, neither of which is good. Also when they inevitably fail to follow the order you knew they probably wouldn't follow the options are to punish them, which is stupid, or ignore, which makes you look weak are both bad.
-Delegation is an interesting thing. As a leader at almost any level you simply cannot personally do everything that must be done. That being said you can delegate authority but not responsibility. In plain language that means someone can act on your behalf to get something done but if they mess up it's still on you.
-My general belief on delegation is that people should focus on doing stuff they can do which others cannot. People should pass the things others can do onto those folks.
-Of course you need to figure out what people are capable of when handing out tasks. Even if they want to do the right thing (which they generally do) asking folks to do something they can't just doesn't work. If I was given the task to write a code for a computer or rebuild the engine on a vehicle I would almost surely fail, because those tasks are outside of my skill set. Furthermore leaders should, whenever possible, have people do things they are interested in. Even if it causes some shuffling of other things if you have folks do stuff they are interested in they will do better and everything goes well.
-The preparedness/ survivalism scene is full of people who want to be the leader but absent people who want to be led. Every yahoo wants to be the Chief but nobody wants to be an Indian.
-Leading people without a readily apparent extrinsic (money, etc all) motivator is a hassle. Honestly I don't envy 'leaders' in preparedness/ survivalism. Aside from the fact that they are herding cats, they have to figure out how to create intrinsic motivation in people to get them to do stuff. Leading a bunch of cats by consensus in an environment where you have no stock and an iffy carrot would suck.
-In a decent sized group peer pressure is a hell of a thing.
-Purchased a second mag for the Ruger LCP.
-Typed up our pantry inventory. I need to print it out and keep it on a clip board in the kitchen.
-Did some reading ham stuff.
-Cranking the miles out decently with some soreness but no joint issues. Am at 20 miles so far for the month and given that last month was 27 total that is good. My goal this month is between 35 and 40. I would like to progress over another month or two and end up in the 45-55 mile range. We'll see what happens.
-Reading Tales of the Stake Out Squad. Pretty interesting story about a unique time period.
What did you do to prepare this week?
T Blog did a post on trimming pack weight.I have a few thoughts on this. In no particular order.
-When it comes to weight it is important to talk apples and apples.
-I weigh my ruck dry as in without water. Of course total weight including water (wet) matters but since water is rapidly consumed then replaced I find 'dry' a more meaningful number.
- We also have to get on the same page as to concept of use. Since the BOB/ level 3 sustainment load is pretty ambiguous the question of how amounts of consumables, specifically food, matters. Of course a bag set up to feed a person for 5 days is going to weigh more than one designed for 2 days.
-40 pounds coming up as the number some D Boys settled on is interesting. My BOB/ level 3 sustainment load comes in a shade under 40 pounds (dry, 37 if I recall) and if I recall John Mosby's is in the same general weight range.
-The snugpack is a pretty cool little setup. I would like one for my level 2.5 bag and since they are a shade under $60 it is an easy decision.
-Cutting weight on individual items is a good plan so long as it does not compromise capabilities you want/ need. For example swapping a 5" full tang knife for a smaller 3", lighter full tang knife would save weight with negligible capability loss. On the other hand going to a Mora would mean the fixed blade knife would have few capabilities beyond my EDC benchmade.
-Weight of food is notable. Also specifically for the little Tactical Tailor bag I bought bulk matters. I am looking at revisiting my food plan for this bag with some protein bars that are calorie dense and some freeze dried stuff for actual meals.
-My level 2.5 bag is sitting at 17 pound dry. I would like to get it into the 13-15 pound range. Will do some more shaving and then post a contents list.
-Oleg Volk did an interesting post on pistol caliber carbines. The 5.56 pistol is discussed.
-A little .380 like the Ruger LCP/ Kel Tech P3AT/ S&W Bodyguard has a couple of apparent uses. The first is as a deep concealment piece. The kind of little pistol you can carry pretty much anywhere has a pretty solid role in any battery. Secondly they are an obvious choice as a back up gun.
-These guns fill a valid role. I owned a Kahr but ended up selling it because it didn't bring a unique capability to the table.
-A couple of buddies have a two pistol combo of a full sized handgun and a little .380. They respectively own a Springfield TRP 1911/ Kel Tech P3AT and a Springfield XD and Kahr P380. This combo has a lot of merit. A full sized house/ SHTF gun and a nice little carry piece cover both ends of the spectrum.
-As to carrying a little .380 there are certainly some compromises to be made. They are handy as can be and can slip into any pocket. Obviously they are of a rather small caliber, not especially easy to shoot and don't carry a bunch of rounds.
-One must do their own risk analysis and cost to benefit on whether carrying such a small pistol is for them. I can't make choices for anybody else. Personally I live in a very safe little community. My odds of facing a robber coming out of the grocery store with a gallon of milk for the kiddo's at 7pm are infinitesimal. As such the convenience of slipping a handy little pistol to slip in my pocket is useful with minimal risk.
I am comfortable with the LCP in my pocket in this sleepy little town. Now if I was visiting my sister in Houston I would be carrying the LCP, as a back up to my Glock 19.
-Ammo is an interesting discussion. Meister and the smart guy from box of truth both recommend FMJ since no JHP ammo is capable of sufficient penetration to meet the FBI standards. I am currently packing some 90 grain Hornady JHP ammo that I got a box of at the gun store but I have to do some more research on the matter. I like the .380 Speer gold dots as well as generally liking Gold Dots in pretty much every caliber.
I think between the Ruger LCP and Glock 19 most of my pistol needs are met.
Got pocket pistol?
"I'll hold the shotgun."- Wifey
Background. At approximately 2200 the dogs started freaking out. Dogs went outside and kept freaking out so I went and got the shotgun. Shined a light outside and the big dogs were fighting over something. Was it a stuffed animal? They drag them into the yard sometimes. I go to take a closer look. It was a dead possum. Wifey asks "What do we do with it?"
That brought up the quote.
1 possum dead and all my chickens alive, will call that a good day. New dog might be staying around after all.
Also I feel pretty good about our home security status if the dogs lose their shit that much about an overgrown rat I don't like a persons odds of sneaking up undetected at all.
AK-47 with fixed wood stock. Don't especially care what model though a good one would be nice and a chrome lined barrel would be good too. I do not want to get deep into the AK vs AR discussion. They both have a lot to offer and some marginal up sides over each other. The things that really put the AK above the AR, for this very specific scenario, is that it's capacity to use as a bludgeon to kill those darn Zombies is much better than the AR. Yes you can butt stroke someone with an AR but you could bash in Walker skulls all day long with an AK with a fixed wood stock! Also they are more durable and physically rugged than AR's, if by a small margin, and close to comparable in terms of the amount of mags n ammo floating around to scavenge.
Glock 19/17 with threaded barrel and silencer. Mod's don't really matter but if I had the options it would have supressor sized night sights, a stainless steel guide rod and a 3.5lb trigger connector. I would choose the Glock because they are super durable and probably the most common caliber/ platform out there.
Bolt action rifle with iron sights and a good scope in a flat shooting caliber. Due to commonality .308 would probably be the way I would go and one of the new Savage rifles like their Hog Hunter or Scout would be great but any old common bolt gun in .308/ '06 is just fine too. The goal of this would be reaching out and touching someone at 200+ yards with a fair element of precision.
The caveat to this is if I was able to really use one a bow (non compound variety) that would be a great option. One of those plain fiberglass 40ish pound recurve bows you see at garage sales all the time.
Busse TGLB sage with tan micarta grips. All the coolness of Daryl Dixon but with an easier to maintain finish
What are your walking dead guns?
What's on my list? In no particular order of priority:
-An AR-15 stripped lower just in case. As of late I've seen a trend of slightly used, or sometimes unfired upper's at fire sale prices on the local market. Lots of guys here seem to want to build an AR and don't quite get it done, flip uppers to build a new project or just plain need money. Having a lower to complete one of those would be nice.
-At least 2 more mags for the LCP.
-Some sort of way to carry a spare LCP mag or two.
-A hundred rounds of good .380 defensive ammo like 90 grain Speer Gold Dots and a few boxes of plain old .380 FMJ to practice with.
-A couple hundred rounds of Winchester .308 150 grain Power X Soft Points.
-A few more Glock mags. Maybe those new magpul ones because they are half the price of OEM.
-A few more PMAGs
Do you think this is the start of the run or just a little unrelated blip in the market?
On a training note I just sent a goodly sized check to a man who is very experienced in the use of defensive/ tactical pistols. This is the weakest link in my combative/ personal defense situation. I tried to address it some time ago but things didn't work out. Anyway now I'm trying to make this training goal happen. In terms of pistol stuff honestly I am not a total newb but far from where I want to be. Not saying I completely suck but the weakest link is such all the same. While I have some ammo stashed I hope things will work out so I can get a fresh case of 9mm to take out there.
Also I spent a good chunk of time today sharpening my knives. Got to have the EDC working well.
Anyway that is what's going on here today.
This book is definitely old school written by one of the most preeminent western law men, pistol shooters and handgun authorities of his era. He spent 30 years on the border patrol, mostly as far as I can tell on the Texas border as well as fighting as a Marine in WWII and Korea. His shooting skills were legendary from wax bullet exhibitions drawing and point firing at asprin to a legitimate recorded .27 second draw and shot on target! Given that a one second draw to first shot is considered pretty good that is downright amazing. He was also the man behind the S&W Model 19 Combat Magnum which was the peak of the police/ fighting revolver.
This book is pretty short at 114 pages with a few thoughtful blank ones at the end for notes. There is a general opening followed by discussion on selection and maintenance of holsters, pistol grips, handguns, cartridges and bullets. After that it talks about the mechanics of the draw and how to work to build speed without losing accuracy (it's amazing how little some things change). After that it gets into some of the psychological stuff and a variety of different things then there is a summary and closing. Onto the usual format.
The Good: This book is short. At 110 pages I read it in about 2 hours. To say it is short is not an insult. It thoughtfully covered every topic necessary and left nothing out. There were enough 'no shit there he was' stories about cool old school lawmen/ gunfighters to be entertaining but so many as to bring the conversation off track or to add unnecessarily to the length of the work.
As noted before Bill Jordan probably sweated out more wisdom on the Texas border than most shooters, even competent instructors possess. Aside from being a tough guy in a tough place during a tough time some of the tangibles of his capabilities were downright amazing. Given that he lives to the era of shot timers and video cameras his feats carry a lot more weight of accuracy than those of an era where news was only passed by word of mouth and print.
So much of this work is still entirely relevant today. Granted the strictly technological stuff is dated, there isn't a way around that in a book that is 50 years old. Still a person outfitted with the gear described as optimal; a good wide gun belt, a stiff strong side leather holster, a double action 4" revolver with ergonomic grips and semi jacketed lead flat nose bullets could certainly do a whole lot worse. The setup he described is pretty much my perfect woods walking rig.
Gear talk aside so much of what was described is still so relevant.
I particularly enjoyed how Mr Jordan described the transition of different shooting techniques for different ranges. This is something I've thought about and practiced in the past. In short as distance increases you need more accuracy so there is a transition from speed to accuracy. It goes something like this.
0-3 yards- Draw and fire as soon as the gun comes level. Today we have reinvented this into a 'speed rock.This move is shown well in the beginning of the Collateral 'Briefcase Scene'
3-7 yards. From the speed rock you extend the handgun and bring it out and a little up to get a better shot.
7-15 yards- The hands come together at stomach level.
15-25 meters- Traditional aimed fire at eye level.
So much more good stuff.
The Bad: Like anything that goes way deep into specific gear (vs concepts, etc) as time goes by it becomes dated. While I loves me some k frame S&W's that stuff is way out of date.
The Ugly: beautiful craftsmen quality fighting revolvers like the K Frame Model 19 .357 are no longer widely available and affordable for all but the lowest budgets in hardware and general stores.
Conclusion. You can take the gear stuff with a grain of salt though they represent the peak of the fighting revolver, well minus ammo. Today I'd choose a 158 grain JHP instead of the semi jacketed lead flat nose we tend to call a semi jacketed soft point today. That being said I don't want to take either one to the chest.
Still gear aside the book has a ton to offer. Heck the 'there he was' stories and the amusing no longer politically correct outdated language is worth the price of the book for entertainment value alone. Seriously though this book has a ton of valuable tips and knowledge to offer. Also if you are so inclined a minute on google can find it in PDF.
Got bad assed old school gunfighter knowledge?
This months goal is at least 35, if I feel good It's a total of running and rucking so it's not too bad. This morning I did 4.5. A target of 9-10 a week will give me a little buffer in case things fall short at some point.
Alexander Wolfe posted a pic of his sweet new AR-15. Very cool stuff. While we did some things differently with me opting for a standard weight barrel and a variable powered scope and him for a light weight barrel and an Aimpoint micro it is a nice rifle and I hope it serves him well.
This weeks plans are to do some research on a decent defensive .380 load, keep reading the ham radio book and do a few things towards the food storage record keeping. Also I'll look to put together a set of stuff for the saw and generator to keep them together in a big tuff box.
What are your plans for next week?
One of the interesting things about survivalism/ preparedness/ pro freedom people being such a varied group. They come with different concerns and motivations is there are some folks who are against vaccination for what they believe are medical reasons. Also there are anarchist types whose immediate instinct is to do the exact opposite of what anyone says because it is obviously a conspiracy.
Jimmy Kimmel did a funny but valid bit on vaccination.
So now I am the owner of a Ruger LCP Custom. Picked up a box of JHP ammo and a box of FMJ to try it out with. Ordered a Safariland 25-1881-21 Inside Pocket Holster to carry it in. Going to have to get some spare mags and more ammo as soon as the budget and other projects will allow.
Do you own a pistol in this category? If so what are your thoughts on it?
Primarily I have gotten back to packing around my Glock 19 a whole lot more. How did I do this? Well I had to get some new pants. A couple pair of my pants were just plain worn out. So when I replaced them I bought pants 2 inches bigger around than I am around. Actually brought my Glock to the store when I purchased them to try them on with it. After that I went into the closet and threw out my shirts that were not sufficiently sized to let me wear the Glock 19 at 3 o'clock discretely. That combined with my blade tech belt and Bianchi professional 100 and I'm back to packing the G19 a lot.
So how does this relate to the Kahr? Well given these, not entirely insignificant accommodations the concealability of my Glock 19 is not very different from the Kahr CW9. Since they fall into the same general footprint if I could carry one I could carry the other. Why would I carry a gun with half the bullets that I do not shoot as well? Meister was right to carry a bigger gun and dress around it a little bit. Still there are some situations where you just can't carry that much of a pistol. Or maybe you are running to the corner store for milk in a sleepy, safe area. Or it is August in Louisiana and 100 degrees with sauna like humidity and blazing sun. A smaller gun does have a role.
Looking hard at getting a pocket sized .380. It is true this is another caliber but it is the quint essential carry a lot, shoot a little gun. The kind of gun where you get 4 or so mags, 150 or so rounds of good JHP ammo, 250 rounds of FMJ for practice and call it good.
Specifically I am looking at the Ruger LCP. The price difference between them and the Kel Tec is negligible and well, Ruger makes better guns than Kel Tec. Also Kel Tec's business model of making guns with an enormous lemon rate and offering a lifetime warranty knowing they sell a price point gun to people who, on average shoot very little bothers me. A defensive firearm should work out of the box, not after being sent back to the factory twice, you doing an internal polish job and racking the slide 10,000 times to smooth out all the manufacturing mistakes. It would take a lot to convince me that Kel Tec guns to a professional standard with any consistence. I know some KT's work but many do not. Also KT's seem to have gone up in price considerably. The difference between a Kel Tec P3AT and a Ruger LCP in my AO is about $50. That is the price of a decent bottle of Scotch or a meal out for the family. If it was $100+ that would be a different discussion but for such a small difference I see no reason to settle, especially since I have the money.
So those are my thoughts on that. What do you think? Personal experiences with the Ruger LCP?
T Blog wrote a post On Gear Consolidation that I have been thinking about.
Also a few years back I sold off a few guns to fund Project AR. They were either oddballs or outliers from the rest of my collection. I do not miss any of them. Selling stuff you no longer have a use for makes sense.
Now selling something useful I have a bit harder time with.
If you can afford it there is a lot to be said for keeping the servicable rigger belt with the clip you don't love as a back up belt, especially if it will fetch a negligible price.
Ditto for that $400 AK you bought a decade ago when such things were available.
It is worth considering if these items have a purpose. Do they fit into some part of your plans or is it just more junk?
It is also worth considering what the cash is going to purchase. Is it fundamentally making our situation better, neutral or arguably worse. If you want to sell odds n ends to buy super pails of food then rock on. On the other hand if you are selling that AK to spend on $400 tactical urban operations Crye Precision pants so you can look like some 'operator' on youtube that is stupid.
Something to consider is what sort of loss you take by selling that item. Some items like guns hold their value pretty well, especially if purchased used. Other items, with any degree of use, have values fall my a third or even half. These items I would have a hard time selling if they had any use because what you'll get out of them might not be worth it. Especially if you are a person always chasing the coolest new thing selling kit for a 30% write off to buy new stuff all the time will add up in price.
Alexander mentioned the false economics of holding onto stuff because it means you cannot cash out that value to acquire new stuff. I would agree but at the same time the economic power of already purchased gear cuts both ways. I could not have afforded to go out and set up my operational cache in one shot. That being said while it did theoretically represent value it was all stuff purchased years before sitting in closets and storage bins. I just about put that together from stuff on hand. Now I have a pretty good setup that really didn't cost me anything. In the next couple years I plan to set up another cache or two the same way. These are in my mind a great way to use serviceable stuff that is lying around, especially if you would take a decent write off by selling it.
While I do lean more towards the backup and cache side of the house I am planning (if I ever get off my butt) to sell some stuff I either no longer use or have in excess of my (redundant and paranoid) needs. This is mostly about clearing up some space and leveling out my stuff than anything else.
What do you all think?
Max Velocity talks alternatives to M855. Putting my money where my mouth is that case of 55gr M193 5.56 I just ordered showed up today. I need to get a 50 cal ammo can to store it in. Also need one for that case of 7.62x39 I bought when the Ukraine really kicked off. I probably need to order about 4 ammo cans.
500 rounds of Remington 110gr SJHP for $250. Fifty cents a round for any .357 mag ammo is a good deal. For Remington hollow points it is a darn good deal.
500 rounds of Independence 55gr M193 for $164.99 (.33 a rd). With the nature of 5.56 right now this is a good deal. If you are short, or just want a few months of training ammo this is a good way to get squared away.
Rating 1 star lowest, 5 stars highest
Click stars to vote for Total Survivalist Blog