Surviving In Argentina

The latest posts from Surviving In Argentina





This is a follow up video of“Gray Man Philosophy”. It’s  a bit long but I go over some of the comments made in the first video and various points you may find useful about Gray man, preparedness and mindset are brought up.
FerFAL 


Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: August 12, 2014, 9:40 pm
The information below is straight from the Centers For Disease Controls and Prevention. I'll be posting more about Ebola in the following days but this is a good place to get started.

WHO recommended guidelines for epidemic preparednessand response : Ebola haemorrhagic fever (EHF) also has a lot of good information.

 
WHO recommended guidelines for epidemic preparedness and response : Ebola haemorrhagic fever (EHF) - See more at: http://apps.who.int/iris/handle/10665/63806#sthash.ihAlZBOY.dpuf
WHO recommended guidelines for epidemic preparedness and response : Ebola haemorrhagic fever (EHF) - See more at: http://apps.who.int/iris/handle/10665/63806#sthash.ihAlZBOY.dpuf
WHO recommended guidelines for epidemic preparedness and response : Ebola haemorrhagic fever (EHF) - See more at: http://apps.who.int/iris/handle/10665/63806#sthash.ihAlZBOY.dpuf

About Ebola Hemorrhagic Fever

 

Ebola hemorrhagic fever (Ebola HF) is one of numerous Viral Hemorrhagic Fevers. It is a severe, often fatal disease in humans and nonhuman primates (such as monkeys, gorillas, and chimpanzees).
Ebola HF is caused by infection with a virus of the family Filoviridae, genus Ebolavirus. When infection occurs, symptoms usually begin abruptly. The first Ebolavirus species was discovered in 1976 in what is now the Democratic Republic of the Congo near the Ebola River. Since then, outbreaks have appeared sporadically.
There are five identified subspecies of Ebolavirus. Four of the five have caused disease in humans: Ebola virus (Zaire ebolavirus); Sudan virus (Sudan ebolavirus); Taï Forest virus (Taï Forest ebolavirus, formerly Côte d’Ivoire ebolavirus); and Bundibugyo virus (Bundibugyo ebolavirus). The fifth, Reston virus (Reston ebolavirus), has caused disease in nonhuman primates, but not in humans.
The natural reservoir host of ebolaviruses remains unknown. However, on the basis of available evidence and the nature of similar viruses, researchers believe that the virus is zoonotic (animal-borne) with bats being the most likely reservoir. Four of the five subtypes occur in an animal host native to Africa.
A host of similar species is probably associated with Reston virus, which was isolated from infected cynomolgous monkeys imported to the United States and Italy from the Philippines. Several workers in the Philippines and in US holding facility outbreaks became infected with the virus, but did not become ill.

Transmission

Because the natural reservoir of ebolaviruses has not yet been proven, the manner in which the virus first appears in a human at the start of an outbreak is unknown. However, researchers have hypothesized that the first patient becomes infected through contact with an infected animal.
When an infection does occur in humans, there are several ways in which the virus can be transmitted to others. These include:
  • direct contact with the blood or secretions of an infected person
  • exposure to objects (such as needles) that have been contaminated with infected secretions
The viruses that cause Ebola HF are often spread through families and friends because they come in close contact with infectious secretions when caring for ill persons.
During outbreaks of Ebola HF, the disease can spread quickly within health care settings (such as a clinic or hospital). Exposure to ebolaviruses can occur in health care settings where hospital staff are not wearing appropriate protective equipment, such as masks, gowns, and gloves.
Proper cleaning and disposal of instruments, such as needles and syringes, is also important. If instruments are not disposable, they must be sterilized before being used again. Without adequate sterilization of the instruments, virus transmission can continue and amplify an outbreak.

Signs and Symptoms

Symptoms of Ebola HF typically include:
  • Fever
  • Headache
  • Joint and muscle aches
  • Weakness
  • Diarrhea
  • Vomiting
  • Stomach pain
  • Lack of appetite
Some patients may experience:
  • A Rash
  • Red Eyes
  • Hiccups
  • Cough
  • Sore throat
  • Chest pain
  • Difficulty breathing
  • Difficulty swallowing
  • Bleeding inside and outside of the body
Symptoms may appear anywhere from 2 to 21 days after exposure to ebolavirus though 8-10 days is most common.
Some who become sick with Ebola HF are able to recover, while others do not. The reasons behind this are not yet fully understood. However, it is known that patients who die usually have not developed a significant immune response to the virus at the time of death.

Risk of Exposure

In Africa, confirmed cases of Ebola HF have been reported in:
  • Guinea
  • Liberia
  • Sierra Leone
  • Nigeria
  • Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC)
  • Gabon
  • South Sudan
  • Ivory Coast
  • Uganda
  • Republic of the Congo (ROC)
  • South Africa (imported)
The natural reservoir host of ebolaviruses, and the manner in which transmission of the virus to humans occurs, remain unknown. This makes risk assessment in endemic areas difficult. With the exception of several laboratory contamination cases (one in England and two in Russia), all cases of human illness or death have occurred in Africa; no case has been reported in the United States.
During outbreaks of Ebola HF, those at highest risk include health care workers and the family and friends of an infected individual. Health care workers in Africa should consult the Infection Control for Viral Hemorrhagic Fevers In the African Health Care Setting to learn how to prevent and control infections in these setting. Medical professionals in the United States should consult the Interim Guidance for Managing Patients with Suspected Viral Hemorrhagic Fever in U.S. Hospitals Adobe PDF file [PDF - 60KB].

Diagnosis

Diagnosing Ebola HF in an individual who has been infected for only a few days is difficult, because the early symptoms, such as red eyes and a skin rash, are nonspecific to ebolavirus infection and are seen often in patients with more commonly occurring diseases.
However, if a person has the early symptoms of Ebola HF and there is reason to believe that Ebola HF should be considered, the patient should be isolated and public health professionals notified. Samples from the patient can then be collected and tested to confirm infection.

Treatment

Standard treatment for Ebola HF is still limited to supportive therapy. This consists of:
  • balancing the patient’s fluids and electrolytes
  • maintaining their oxygen status and blood pressure
  • treating them for any complicating infections
Timely treatment of Ebola HF is important but challenging since the disease is difficult to diagnose clinically in the early stages of infection. Because early symptoms such as headache and fever are nonspecific to ebolaviruses, cases of Ebola HF may be initially misdiagnosed.
However, if a person has the early symptoms of Ebola HF and there is reason to believe that Ebola HF should be considered, the patient should be isolated and public health professionals notified. Supportive therapy can continue with proper protective clothing until samples from the patient are tested to confirm infection.
Experimental treatments have been tested in animals but have not yet been tested in humans for safety or effectiveness.

Prevention

 Health care workers dressed in protective clothing in an African village

The prevention of Ebola HF presents many challenges. Because it is still unknown how exactly people are infected with Ebola HF, there are few established primary prevention measures.
When cases of the disease do appear, there is increased risk of transmission within health care settings. Therefore, health care workers must be able to recognize a case of Ebola HF and be ready to employ practical viral hemorrhagic fever isolation precautions or barrier nursing techniques. They should also have the capability to request diagnostic tests or prepare samples for shipping and testing elsewhere.

MSF (Médecins Sans Frontières) health staff in protective clothing constructing perimeter for isolation ward.
Barrier nursing techniques include:
  • wearing of protective clothing (such as masks, gloves, gowns, and goggles)
  • the use of infection-control measures (such as complete equipment sterilization and routine use of disinfectant)
  • isolation of Ebola HF patients from contact with unprotected persons.
The aim of all of these techniques is to avoid contact with the blood or secretions of an infected patient. If a patient with Ebola HF dies, it is equally important that direct contact with the body of the deceased patient be prevented.
CDC, in conjunction with the World Health Organization, has developed a set of guidelines to help prevent and control the spread of Ebola HF. Entitled Infection Control for Viral Hemorrhagic Fevers In the African Health Care Setting, the manual describes how to:
  • recognize cases of viral hemorrhagic fever (such as Ebola HF)
  • prevent further transmission in health care setting by using locally available materials and minimal financial resources.


Source: Centers For Disease Controls and Prevention






Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: August 11, 2014, 11:42 pm

Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: August 9, 2014, 1:14 am



 --
Fernando,

I just got done reading yournew book. It is a worth sequel to your first book and I'll likely post a review of it on my blog soon.
I live on the South Island in Christchurch. I'd like to offer some input on your book in relation to New Zealand. Feel free to post these comments, but please leave off my name for now.
As a background, I left the United States last December and relocated to New Zealand. The reasons are many and complex as you likely can relate. However I just didn't like the overall direction of the United States and actually think the political situation is becoming less stable each year. My girlfriend is a Kiwi and I had been to the country and always liked it so I figured I'd give it a go. 

Crime - Gangs are really not the issue that people think. Realize that crime in NZ is dramatically lower than most places in the U.S. for instance. The police here don't even carry guns as a course of duty. So really most crime tends to get a lot of press because serious violent crime is just not common. With that said, there are some gangs usually involved with drugs, etc. If you are not involved with the drug trade chances of you running into gang problems are virtually nil, just like in the U.S. Random violent crime is not common but could happen from time to time if you are in the wrong place. You do have some problems with drunk teens in some places, but no worse than anywhere else on the planet. Overall, there are very few places in NZ that I'd be afraid to walk in at night. It's a very safe country. 

Culture - The culture of the South Island is very solid. After the big earthquake in 2011 in Christchurch for instance there was basically no looting, pillaging, etc. as some survivalists think would happen. The community came together and helped out. Buildings that were condemned after the quakes still had intact windows with shelves of inventory on them that nobody broke in to steal even a year after the fact. There were only some very small isolated issues and they were dealt with quickly and competently by the police.
I think what a lot of survivalists don't recognize is that no man is an island. Living in a cabin in the woods does not mean you are safe, it may just mean you are easy to target. What you really want is to live in a community where everyone doesn't turn into rabid predators at the first sign of trouble. In Christchurch we have that. In many American cities, you do not. The US culture in some places is very bad and this makes it a toxic mix in the event of serious trouble. I do not have that fear living in New Zealand. The culture here is not corrupt and very community minded. 

Attitudes - Kiwis are very independent and don't like hearing people whine. They have a saying here if you are whining: "Harden up!" This basically means stop complaining and get on with your job. Being somewhat isolated down here, they tend to be more self-reliant and not dependent on everyone else to keep things going. It's a good attitude. 

Electricity, Water and Food - Most electricity in NZ is renewable sources like hydro, wind, geothermal, etc. Water is plentiful. Agriculture is the major industry here so food is not a problem and it is all extremely high quality and tends to be organically produced. NZ exports a lot of food to China, Australia, US, and Europe. There is some oil production so in an emergency I believe there would be enough petrol supplies to keep critical industries running. 

Immigration - NZ has tough immigration laws, but at the same time they don't import a lot of poverty and crime like the U.S. which compounds the social problems. Immigration law violations are dealt with with deportation and banning of re-entry. Being surrounded by water makes it hard for troublemakers to enter the country and become a burden. 

Healthcare - Like you said, it's a mix of public and private insurance. The public side is pretty good, but if you want fast elective procedures you can get private insurance. It's all very modern and competent service as you'd find in the U.S. Frankly, I think it's better from what I've seen in terms of doctors and treatment. 

Lawsuits - You can't easily sue anyone in New Zealand. There is a national no fault insurance scheme and this makes the legal environment here much friendlier compared to the U.S., especially for starting and running a business. You don't have to worry about petty lawsuits in the country as you do in America. 

Firearms - Your section on firearms was pretty much spot on. Honestly, NZ probably has more lax firearms laws than some states in the US now. Hunting and sport shooting are very popular and many people own firearms. You can buy military style semi-autos with an A class license as long as they do not have a pistol grip and flash suppressor. Magazines would be limited to 7 rounds in that case. If you get the E class license you can basically buy any military style semi auto you want along with magazine. Suppressors here are also common and you can buy them over the counter. Lots of people hunt with suppressors for safety reasons. You can own pistols if you belong to a pistol club, but you must shoot a certain number of times a year to keep it current. Three gun competitions, IPSC, etc. are all done down here.

The basic gist of the gun laws are: 1) They want to make sure you aren't a nut. 2) They want to make sure you aren't a criminal. 3) They want to make sure you keep the firearms locked up against unauthorized access. Pretty much that's it and I don't have any real problems with their goals. 

Hunting - Big game animals in NZ are all introduced species and considered pests. You can hunt here year round with no seasons and no limits in most cases. You can use firearms, bows, knives, bare hands, whatever.  This is for deer, wapiti (elk), pigs, ducks, chamois, tahr, rabbits, possums, etc. World class hunting in many aspects. 

South Island Cities - Nelson is a nice smaller city, but somewhat isolated up north. Christchurch did have an earthquake, but is rebuilding and is by far much bigger and closer to jobs, hospitals, universities, etc. if you need them. Dunedin is a nice smaller university town further south. Invercargill is a very small town at the southern tip of NZ and is also a nice small town if you want colder weather. Queenstown is a recreational area with world class skiing and summer activities. Many Australians come to Queenstown to ski. 

North Island Cities - Auckland is a nice mid-size city. It has everything you'd expect to find in any city around the world along with world class sailing. I've not been to Wellington, but it is supposed to have a San Francisco vibe with the hills and winds. Some North Island cities tend to have higher rates of crime with larger Maori populations. But again, nothing like in the U.S.
Drugs - Meth (called P down here) tends to be the bad drug of choice in NZ and causes problems just as it does anywhere else. Underage drinking can be a problem, but again nothing worse than anywhere else. 

Overall, I like NZ and feel the government isn't at the extreme paranoia level of the U.S. Plus, being a small government, they don't have the resources to go around causing trouble everywhere. And if they tried causing trouble, nobody would take them seriously because they don't take themselves too seriously either. It's a nice place to be.

Thanks again for the book, it was a great read.

-- C


Hello C,
Thank you so much for your kind words and for the information about New Zealand. 

When I was about to publish my second book, “Bugging Out and Relocating”, I was afraid that it wouldn’t live up to the standards set by my first one “The Modern Survival Manual:Surviving the Economic Collapse”. My first book was a big success and people clearly liked it a lot, and I wondered how people would receive my second one, being a topic that requires more analytic thinking, more about making hard decisions rather than day to day urban survival like the first book. A friend asked me if that was a concern I had, and it was, but at the same time “Bugging Out and Relocating” is a book I had to write because its what I ultimately did to overcome the economic collapse of Argentina. Its information others can put to good use in a worst case scenario and it complimented the first book well. “The Modern Survival Manual” was about living after an economic collapse, dealing with high levels of street crime, inflation, corruption and failing infrastructure. “Bugging Out and Relocating” is about getting the hell out of the when you just can’t stay any more.

New Zealand is clearly a great place to live. It does have those limitations I mentioned in my opinion, mostly earthquakes and being geographically far from USA and Europe (although that could be an advantage as well), but other than that there’s really not a lot to complain about New Zealand. The gang crime, and the bullying and discrimination in some schools, those I mention not because I believe them to be deal breaking problem, but so as to keep them in mind when narrowing down exactly where to live and which schools to send your children to. Of course, the type of family and lifestyle will be different as well. A couple with no kids wont have the same concerns as one with a teenage son that will probably go out more and hang out with friends. 

Its good to hear that New Zealand is working so well for you. Once you research the country in detail you can see why so many people like it so much. One of my best friends has been living in Auckland for a few years now, had a son not that long ago and he’s not going anywhere.
Regarding immigration, NZ would be a very good example of things done right. NZ needs immigrants, and what they do is make sure they get the right kind. They have schemes for young people that want to travel on holidays and work there for a year. Young, honest, hardworking people make for fantastic immigrants. They work, pay their fees and don’t get sick often like older people do. If someone, like my friend, has a good experience working in New Zealand, finds a job and choses to stay there, they can do that too. Its not about banning immigration, but having immigration laws that make it harder or impossible for the least desired immigrants, but makes it easier for the ones you want. Criminals would of course be banned from entry, older people will have to bring with them a significant amount of investment money after a certain age, or have highly desirable skills, while young workers without children have it a bit easier for the reasons mentioned before (they contribute, but don’t demand that much financially).

New Zealand has great climate, excellent gun laws, and most of all, its very safe and has very little corruption. The issue of corruption is important in my opinion. I lived surrounded by corruption most of my life and know for a fact it contaminates and ruins everything.
Thanks for your email. As you read already I think New Zealand is a top choice for relocating. Some relocating “experts” will say its too expensive… I’m not rich yet I know that as the saying goes, you pay for what you get. Its never as truthful as it is regarding the place you live. If anything, New Zealand is a great bargain in my opinion. You have arguably one of the best qualities of life in the entire world yet the cost of living, while not cheap, is very reasonable.
As time goes by, after living there for another year or two, you will probably find some things you don’t like that much, or maybe the ones you already knew of will bug you a bit more. That’s normal, the “honeymoon” period during the first year is pretty normal, but beyond that no place is perfect. New Zealand has a lot going for it.
Take care and good luck!

FerFAL
Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: August 7, 2014, 8:58 pm

Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: August 7, 2014, 1:50 am
I asked Jeff the "The Berkey Guy" about the Berkey filters and the water probelms in Toledo, Ohio, related to cyanobacteria.
It seems that the Black Berkey purification elements would work well.
 Below is the full reply:

ALGAE BLOOM – FAQ
Below is some information that might be helpful, with respect to the recent Algae
Bloom and resulting contamination of the water supply to Toledo, Ohio:
“…Cyanobacterial cells range in size from 0.5-1 μm to 40 μm in diameter…”
In other words, it's a long skinny bacteria.
Reference:
http://huey.colorado.edu/cyanobacteria/about/cyanobacteria.php
Internet research seems to indicate that cyanobacteria are even larger, typically
on the scale of 150 micrometers in size.
While we have not tested the specific microbes associated with Algae Blooms, we
have tested other pathogenic bacteria and two viruses, which are a small fraction
of the size of these microbes.
To understand the difference between the size of pathogenic bacteria and
viruses, we suggest the following web link as it will give you a great visual of the
difference.
The University of Utah Cell Size and Scale Chart:
http://learn.genetics.utah.edu/content/cells/scale/
Slide the scale at the bottom to see the size of virus vs bacteria vs other potential
contaminates and magnify to greater levels.
Black Berkey™ purification elements have been tested to remove both
pathogenic bacteria and viruses to greater than the EPA purification standards.
This suggests that larger bacteria, such as cyanobacteria, should also be
effectively removed. Without test data on that specific microbe however, NMCL
does not make that specific claim.
The MS-2 virus is 24-26 nm in size.
The Fr Coliphage virus is 25nm in size.
In other words, they are over 1,000 times smaller than Cyanobateria.
Additionally Microcystins, which are the chemical contaminates resulting from
cyanobacteria are an organic chemical. Testing of Black Berkey™ elements has
demonstrated they are extremely efficient at removing organic chemicals.
The EPA defines Microcystins as: “…toxins produced by cyanobacteria.
Cyanobacteria are also known as blue-green algae and are ubiquitous in surface water
when conditions are favorable for growth and formation of algal blooms. Cyanobacteria
release toxins upon cell death or lysis. When released, toxins may persist for weeks to
months. Toxins of most concern are microcystins. Microcystins take their name from the
genera Microcystis. Most microcystins are hepatotoxins (liver toxins). Hepatotoxins are
produced by species of the genera Microcystis, Anabena, Nodularia, Oscillatoria among
others. Most microcystins are associated with Microcystis aeruginosa. While the liver is
the primary target of microcystins, it is also a skin, eye and throat irritant…”
Reference:
http://iaspub.epa.gov/tdb/pages/contaminant/contaminantOverview.do
Further, the EPA states that: “…The following processes are considered effective for
the removal/oxidation of microcystin:…. powdered activated carbon (up to 100% for
some microcystins but less so for others), granular activated carbon (time-dependent
from 100% near start up to 38 to 73% at 3.5 months…”
Reference:
http://iaspub.epa.gov/tdb/pages/contaminant/treatmentSummary.do
Finally, the EPA states that: “…Removal of total microcystins, M-LR, and M-LA, in
water by granular activated carbon (GAC) can be very effective where the effectiveness
is based on the empty bed contact time, the carbon's age, and possible biodegradation
of the toxin. Time-dependent monitoring in a full-scale plant ranged 43 to 60 percent
removal for M-LR. Time-dependent monitoring in pilot-scale studies ranged from greater
than 99 percent at one month to 73 percent at 3.5 months for M-LR, and from greater
than 99 percent at one month to 38 percent at 3.5 months for M-LA…”
REFERENCE:
http://iaspub.epa.gov/tdb/pages/contaminantProcess/contaminantProcessOvervie
w.do
Based upon the above Internet research, Black Berkey™ element microbe and
organic chemical removal test data and the information provided by the EPA in
their reference material cited above; these all suggest that Berkey® water
purification systems should be extremely effective at removing and reducing
contaminates resulting from the current algae bloom. NMCL also highly
recommends that whenever possible, the cleanest source water available should
always be utilized.
Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: August 7, 2014, 1:46 am


 


Hi Fernando--What a horrible situation in parts of Ohio where their
water became so contaminated they are told they cannot even boil the
water to make it drinkable. How would you handle that situation if it
happened to you? Thanks.....
J-

Hello J,
Check this link to see what its like for people trying to buy water in Toledo.
The situation is very bad. It seems that water in the area is contaminated due to algae in the area, mostly in Lake Erie, which releases a toxin called microcystin when it decays. The algae grows best in warm, shallow waters like those of Lake Erie. It can’t be boiled, boiling only concentrates the toxin. What about filters? Even filters such as Berkey filters have their limitations. They are capable of filtering pathogens and microorganisms, but getting rid of a cyanotoxins is a different story.
The way I would deal with the situation would be this:
I’d drink the water I have stored, and refill with rain, which in Ireland you would have the opportunity to do so every couple days. While weather is a disadvantage here in general terms, mostly due to the cloudy weather, at the same time the abundance of water is a key strategic asset. Its no accident either. I came here taking into account both the pros and cons, and the availability of water is something I take very seriously. If you look at the rule of 3 it says you cant live 3 minutes without air, 3 hours of exposure, 3 days without water or 3 weeks without food.
In just  a matter of days, shortages and price gouging of water became the norm in Ohio.
People don’t realize how fast they would get thirsty and need water. Food people may go for a day until they get really upset about not eating, but water its just a matter of hours until the thirst kicks in, and when there’s no water around there’s no limit to how much money you can ask for a bottle of water. 

So What to Do?

Simple, Store water!!

Water has to be the most overlooked supply when it comes to survival and preparedness. People just take it for granted, that is, until they don’t have it any more. Filters, tablets, its all ok, but you need actual water stored. Barrels, cases of water, jugs, even refilled soda bottles its all good. In fact, the smaller bottles tend to be handier for general use. 

Reliance Products Aqua-Tainer 7 Gallon Rigid Water Container


How much water you should store depends on a simple question: How long would you like to live if there’s no water to be found? In general, a gallon per person per day is the recommended standard. I would suggest having at least two week worth of water, more obviously being better. You can add a drop or two of bleach per liter before storing, but it may not be necessary. As long as the water is away from sunlight you shouldn’t have any algae problems. Try rotating once a year to avoid nasty plastic taste. 

In terms of purifying water (when possible) besides filters it’s a very good idea to have bleach as well. It can be used to make water safe, and it can be used for general cleaning, something of importance given the recent problems with Ebola and the concerns of a pandemic.
What I suggest doing is getting bleach tablets such as these:

Magichem Bleach Tabs (makes 10 gallons of bleach per card- 4 cards per order)

 These are very compact, practical, take up very little space, and unlike bottles of liquid bleach, they do not lose power until combined with water into liquid bleach. They are usually not very expensive either, and they will store well for years, ready to be turned into fresh bleach when combined with water.
FerFAL
Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: August 5, 2014, 1:48 am
Hello Fernando,
I ran across your blog a couple of years ago and have enjoyed it very much.
In reading your latest post “Solar Storm: How to Get Ready” it reminded me of the book “One Second After” which talks about life after an EMP event.What struck home to me was the main character had a daughter that was 12 and was a type I diabetic (insulin dependent). When I read it my 11 year old son had only been diagnosed with Type I Diabetes for a year. That and I have family an hour and a half from where the book’s story is located in North Carolina.
I thought I would share some of the things I have done that might be helpful for other Type I diabetics or parents. In addition please feel free to offer any other suggestions.
Feel free to use any of this information or images in any way that will help others.
Thank you for your blog and books.
-MIke
Building up Diabetic supplies…
Inline image 2
Building up Diabetic supplies…
Here is what we do. Basically it is like the “pantry” system for food. We order just a little extra with each order. Not much, just a little more than we need. In about a year and a half you’ll have a good amount on hand. Just make sure and keep it rotated out!! What those dates! (You’ll notice numbers on the strip cartons, they are months. Also that picture is really old. We don’t have any 2012 stuff! hahaha!!)
Build a good relationship with your doctor…
Things got a little worrisome at my job and it looked like their might be a layoff, so we told our doctor our concern and he increased our prescription for insulin so we could store a little extra just in case. not sure if all doctors are this way but when we got started I mentioned I liked having extra insulin on hand in case of an emergency. So we worked it out where we would get a little extra insulin with a 3 month order and that helped to get us ahead.
Build a network…
No man is an island… get networked with other diabetics in your community. Work together. You’ll be surprised how many people keep extra supplies on hand. Plus sometimes people will change meters and have a few boxes of test strips or switch gauge needles, etc…  they might give you some or sell to you cheaper than you could buy them.
We have ran out of Ketonestrips once (key word ONCE! Hahaha!!) and had a sick child and it was late at night. One phone call and we had a bottle in less than 15 minutes.
We have a list of Diabetic Parents we keep, and the group is quick to reach out to newly diabetic parents to help them cope.
Keeping your cool…
Insulin must be kept cool until opened. Test strips should not get too cold or overly hot. (About 43 to 100 degrees.) In case of power outages (which we have had in the winter) I have a few systems set up.
1. Generator
2. 1 Liter Frozen Ice bottles and small cooler just for insulin & strips)
3. 12 Volt Car cooler (in case we need to leave or use it to keep insulin cool and we are out of ice.)
Diabetic Emergency Supplies…We keep an emergency Diabetic Supplies kit in all our vehicles.
These are basically for the “Oops” times when my son runs out of something while we are out.
Yeah, it has happened. (They are all stored in a Gluclose tablet bottles, they are rotated our during the time change.)
Inline image 1
Contents from picture… (From top to right):
10 – Pen Cap Needles (For Insulin Pen)
6 – 30 Unit Syringes (We are using the rest of the up and moving to the 50 unit ones.)
16 – Lancets
4 – 50 Unit Syringes
20 – Alcohol Prep Pads
“There is nothing nobler or more admirable than when two people who see eye to eye keep house as man and wife, confounding their enemies and delighting their friends.” – Homer
 
                      -
 
Thanks for sharing your experience MIke!
I read “One Second After” and liked it a lot, recommended reading.
Regarding keeping the medicine cool, I think a portable compressor Freezer/Refrigerator like this one the Dometic (CDF-11) would be a good idea.
Its portable and can be run using any vehicle as a power source rather than needing a generator. Of course there’s not much space, but it should do ok for medicine.
Another thing to keep in mind as a last resort is the Zeer pot, or Pot-in-pot refrigerator, which can be easily made for little money using two clay pots, one smaller than the other. Sand is placed in between the pots and its kept wet. Food is placed inside the smaller pot and covered with a wet cloth. Evaporation does the rest, removing some of the heat.
Don’t expect a lot, but it is surprisingly cool and it sure would help to drop the temperature some.
Thanks for your email and good luck!
FerFAL
Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: August 2, 2014, 2:27 am

Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: August 1, 2014, 3:13 am
Hey guys, here’s the link to the interview I did with Mark Goodwin from Prepper Recon.
Mark is the author of The Economic Collapse Chronicles.
FerFAL
Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: August 1, 2014, 12:41 am



NASA says there is an estimated 12% chance of a "Carrington-class" event (solar storm of 1859) occurring between 2014 and 2024. 12% of getting hit every 10 is maybe not the worst odds but they are still bad enough and deserve at least some pondering so lets do just that.

So What can you do?

Quoting from The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy: Don’t Panic. Really, chances of getting hit are low, and even if we do the magnitude and which parts of the world are affected the most will vary greatly. Worst case scenario we’re looking at entire continents suffering significant damage to their power grid. With most of the infrastructure depending on electricity that’s not very encouraging but its not the end of the world.
Most sensitive electronics would suffer significant damage as the grid goes down. Keep in mind that we can get up to a 3 day warning, between the moment the Coronal mass ejection or flare is detected in the sun and it actually hitting Earth, so most developed nations will be able to take at least some steps to absorb the damage as best as possible even if they don’t disclose the info to the general public to avoid civil unrest, like they did last time.

1)Have the necessary supplies to Bug In

We’re basically looking at having alternative ways of heating, cooking, communicating, transportation and pumping water. This isn’t that different from a power outage scenario where you don’t have electricity.
For staying warm, and for those that don’t have wood burning stoves and fireplaces, the kerosene heater is a great solution. You should have one of these already anyway. Either get one from Amazon or keep an eye out for one in flea markets or garage sales.  If you’re not familiar with kerosene heaters check this video I did as aquick intro.
Kerosene heaters are relatively cheap, EMP proof since there’s no electric components in most of them, safe, very simple to use and dependable. They are much more efficient than generators too when it comes to converting fuel to heat and you can even cook with some models. This is the one I recommend, lots of heat and you can cook on top of it.

Sengoku CV-2230 KeroHeat Convection 23,000-BTU Portable Kerosene Heater




 For smaller houses and apartments I recommend this other model. 
 Sengoku CTN-110 KeroHeat 10,000 BTU Portable Radiant Kerosene Heater, Beige



Of course lighting would be another issue to tackle. Besides flashlights and lanterns, a good idea is to get some cheap string lights and some AA batteries would work nicely for general illumination around the house. 
 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FYJFR6Y?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B00FYJFR6Y&linkCode=xm2&tag=surviinargen-20



It goes without saying that during an extended blackout, maybe with some civil unrest on the streets, you need supplies to stay put until things go back to normal or at least calm down. You will need food (that requires no cooking or at least can be cooked fast, for this I like pasta) canned food, and don’t forget to store plenty of water. People think electricity is the problem, but its not, the real problem during an extended widespread blackout is the lack of water, so store plenty of it in any bit of space you have available use everything from drums to soda bottles under the stairs filled with tap water. If things get REALLY bad, you’ll thank me one day.
Of course, you need a weapon to defend yourself. At least have one firearm at home. Ideally you should own a big bore pistol you received proper instruction on how to operate, if nothing else get a simple revolver that while mechanically more complex has a more simple user interface.
For EMP specific preparedness you want to keep at least some of your electronics safe, just in case. For that you need a Faraday Cage or Box which is fairly simple to build and test. Basically you need to keep the gear in a metal box, fully surrounded by metal. Even a wooden box wrapped in metal foil will work. Ammo cans have rubber sealed which prevent it from fully wrapping the equipment in metal. A crude way of testing is turning on a radio or leaving a phone inside and calling. It should not be able to pick a signal. Sometimes removing the rubber works but make sure you test it. Inside this box at least have a FM radio, a couple LED flashlights and batteries. If you can, include a UHF/VHF radio and a world band radio, which are pretty affordable. World band radios can pick up signals from far distant countries and should the worst happen a world radio in a Faraday cage is cheap insurance.
 TECSUN PL-380 DSP FM stereo. MW. SW. LW. World Band PLL Radio Receiver, LCD Display, ETM Function Added

2)Have a plan of Action

A plan for what to do if a disaster strikes and communications are lost. Where family members go depending on the event taking place, what routes to take, who’s picking up who are some of the strategies to be discussed, each family member’s role clearly explained and everyone’s responsibilities understood.
In most cases, the strategy will be to get everyone home as quickly as possible and shelter in place during the duration of the emergency. Depending on the magnitude of the disaster it may be days or weeks until power is restored, we just don’t know. Keep in mind that repair crews and emergency services will focus their efforts so as to help the most people per hour. This means that just as we see during storms, larger population centers may get power back quicker than some of the most distant smaller towns. 

3)Have a Bug out Plan

Since there is no way of knowing how bad the event may be and how long it may take until order is restored plans so as to bug out or even relocate abroad during a worst case scenario must be in place as well. Some cities are simply impossible to live in for extended periods of time without power. Power is needed to pump water, heat with and run AC, pump sewers, even move people in elevators. A powerful enough solar storm can in theory ruin the infrastructure to a degree that it may take months to rebuild, along with a devastating economic damage. In such as case it may be advised to move somewhere else, maybe even move to another country that hasn’t been affected as badly.  

FerFAL
Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: July 30, 2014, 2:03 am
Having enjoyed discussing the kero heat options I could not help but
wonder if you have looked into any other alternative/outside the norm
methods of heating your home since you moved to Europe.

I have heated with numerous sources over the years including electric,
natural gas, propane, kerosene and wood all of which have advantages
as well as disadvantages.

About 12 years ago while heating about 90% with wood and 10% with
natural gas I was researching something about wood stoves and ran
across the NEPA Crossroads forum (which has a small wood burning
section) which is a forum about burning the clean anthracite coal that
comes from Pennsylvania.

Long story short is that after several years of research I have been
heating 99% with a hand fired coal stove for the past four winters.

It is without a doubt the best heat I have ever been around and
allowed me to heat my house to the subtropic temperatures that my wife
prefers for about $450 last winter. (We see subzero F here in the
mountains of WV every year.)

I saved about 30% by trucking in a whole load of coal the 350 miles
directly from the mine.

Anyway if coal is available in your part of the world it may be an
option for you to look at.

My anthracite is cleaner than wood, stores forever, is not damaged by
water or bugs and is much less work with me only having to add coal
and shake down the ash once a day.

In fact when my son was born I was gone from the house for 40 hours
and the stove was still happily burning keeping the house nice and
warm for our return from the hospital.

Hope you and your are well!

SD
Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: July 29, 2014, 12:29 am
 
Hi Ferfal, check this story out:
Sounds like it'd be pretty bad... and a 12% chance of it hitting in the next 10 years is not small. Would you recommend anything different to be prepared for such an event?
PS Bought your new book, and left you a glowing review on Amazon.
Cheers!
-C


Hi! First of all thanks for the review. I’m glad you liked my new book. The 5 Star review helps a lot so I do appreciate it!
Indeed, we came close, and as you say the statistics regarding how likely it is to happen again are a bit scary. Here’s an interesting article from NASA about the incident:
Such an event would fry electronics so as often stated its better to keep gear and tech as simple as possible.
Depending on where it hits and the magnitude we could be talking about most States being left without power for weeks, maybe months. Then again, the bulk of it may land in the middle of the Pacific or Atlantic, resulting in very limited damage to the infrastructure. There’s simply no way of knowing.
Regardign how to prepare for such an event, start with the basics for sheltering in place (bugging in) covering the most likely disasters first and go from there towards the least likely ones. Plan for long periods of time without power and communications, maybe even without tap water. Your gear should cover the essentials: Staying warm, protecting yourself, having water, food and means of cooking it. Have plans in place in case you have to bug out in a hurry. Make sure you have a potential bug out abroad location in case you may have to leave the country, even the continent due to the event. Fires due to busted lines and centrals are likely and no doubt the services will be overwhelmed. At least in this case, towns and cities with lower population would be an advantage.

FerFAL
Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: July 26, 2014, 11:46 pm
Pray for the people of Argentina.  Glad you got out when you did.http://www.businessinsider.com/judge-will-not-grant-argentina-stay-2014-7
-K

Hello K,
Yes, Argentina is about to default again, very sad news.
This will only make the country lose eve more credibility, weakne the currency even more, send inflation through the roo and well, just make things worse for Arngentina and everyone in it.
FerFAL
Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: July 24, 2014, 4:39 pm



You guys asked for it so for a very limited time only, “The Modern Survivalist” will be available on Kindle!
At that price range, authors make about half the money selling on kindle than in paperback books. I know, makes no sense, but that’s Amazon some times.
Also, and just for today,“Bugging Out and Relocating”(kindle version) for $4.97! If you didn’t get it already, this is it.
As always thanks for your support!

FerFAL
Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: July 24, 2014, 10:37 am


Sounds like one of those cheesy infomercials but all of the above is true.
The benefits of a calorie restricted diet aren’t new. Rats being fed a calorie restricted diet lived twice as long, were more active and overall healthier.
The recent findings published about studies done in monkeys may be even more relevant. Long story short a 30% reduction in calories while maintaining good nutrition roughly extends your life by 20%, reduces the rate by which you age and allows you to live much healthier while alive.

Here's the link to the report, pretty interesting stuff:
This is all of course strongly linked to survival and preparedness for obvious reasons. Living 1% longer sounds pretty good, but if we’re capable of stretching it to 10% or 20% and not only that but also be healthier while doing so then the benefits start piling up. Eating less also means spending less money on food, which directly puts money in our wallet for supplies, gear and of course savings. 

It’s not hard to combine the different benefits with our modern survival plans: We want to live longer, be fit and healthy, save money and stockpile the necessary supplies. Bulking up our supply of wholegrain rice, lentils and canned vegetables means we are buying some of the most affordable food in stores, food that also happens to be high on nutrition but low on calories AND happens to store well, ideal for long term food supply for emergencies.
Eating little of it at a time means we’re abiding by another important survival rule: Store what you eat, eat what you store.
So by now you’re probably thinking: “This all sounds great and I’m on board but I have two important questions, how much calories do I need so as to deduct 30% from that and how do I know how much calories I’m eating?”
Regarding the first question there are several ways of estimating your caloric need but this link would be a good way to start. 

Regarding how many calories you’re eating I suggest downloading a calorie counter app for your phone. They are simple enough to use. After some time you get the hang of it and have a pretty good idea of what you are eating. Having a mostly plant based diet will make things easier since they have good nutrition value but are usually low on calories. I would suggest minimizing the amount of meat consumed as well and sticking to lean meat such as chicken or turkey breast or meat with good fat like salmon and tuna.
If you want to give it a try using some of that rice and lentils you should have stocked up by now, check some out one of my favorite recipes, lentil stew. 

FerFAL
Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: July 22, 2014, 9:39 pm


 
Extract: Smoke from a fire is seen near Moccasin Hill, Ore. Officials say a fast-growing wildfire in southern Oregon has destroyed homes and forced dozens of evacuations.

Fernando, an interesting thing happened recently in south Oregon, a conservative area with lots of "preppers". Basically, a big wildfire hit a rural neighborhood well known in Klamath County for having lots of preppers and off-the-grid types. According to local media, people were forced to flee IMMEDIATELY ahead of flames twice as high as the
pine trees. Many lost everything, including preps. Miraculously, nobody died, but half of an area known variously as "Moccasin Hill" or "Klamath Falls Forest Estates #1" was reduced to ash. Google "Moccasin Hill wildfire Klamath County Oregon" for more info, and be aware that local media often has limits on how many free articles you can read. Thought you'd like to know about it, especially considering the new release of your book about bugging out.
-BC

(also in Canada)
Homes in West Kelowna are threatening by a wildfire that has grown to 400 hectares in size.

 extract:Homes in West Kelowna are threatening by a wildfire that has grown to 400 hectares in size. (CBc)

Here is an example of a bug out for some, and certainly a readiness
test for 60,000 if the wildfires damage the electrical-transmission
lines.

http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/west-kelowna-wildfire-grows-to-400-hectares-1.2711320
-Pete


Thanks for your email.
Here’s a link to the fires in Oregon
 
Indeed, that’s one of the points I try to explain in “Bugging Out and Relocating”: Sometimes you simply don’t get to choose. Sure, in my case it was a country falling apart after a large scale economic disaster, resulting in poverty and crime that changed the landscape of the country, bringing the standards of living below levels I considered acceptable. You could say that’s not the kind of thing that happens every day. But in the case of Oregon and Canada, wild fires do happen with certain frequency and common house fires even more so. What about foreclosures? What about not being able to pay rent? The simple truth is, no preparedness plan is complete without a strategy for when bugging in isn’t an option.

In the case of survivalists, preppers and their homes, just like anyone else, losing all your material belongings can be devastating. Bugging out of Argentina and having to leave most of our belongings behind forced us to reevaluate how much sentimental value we had placed on inanimate objects. I’ve reached the point where I can honestly leave everything behind, I don’t value “stuff” nearly as much as I used to. Sure, I have a few belongings that I like and wouldn’t want to part with, but I’ve learned to understand what’s really important. When it comes to preparedness it is true that certain supplies and gear are important assets. You can’t live without food, water and shelter. Then again, with the right skills (and I’m not talking about starting a fire with a bow drill here folks)  supplies and gear can be replaced and bought again. Here’s where we revisit how important skills and mindset are compared to “stuff”. Also to be addressed, the importance of not putting all your eggs in one basket. 

Even if you have a well set homestead, and as uncomfortable as it may be to even think about it, you must force yourself to do the mental exercise of going through what you would do it you lost it all, if it all went up in flames or you had to evacuate all of a sudden. If you think this way you soon start thinking about reallocating at least some of your supplies and assets, organizing in a different way, leaving a bag or a couple boxes with some family or friends somewhere else. This uncomfortable exercise is good, because it takes you out of your comfort zone, your idealized scenario where everything goes along as you desire, which is the opposite of what happens during real disasters. 

Another point I try to focus on: You just can’t live in your Bug Out Location. If you think you do, then you don’t understand what bug out location means. By definition a BOL is a place other than where you currently reside, because its where you go when your current place of residence is no longer viable. Once you live there, as great and as wonderful as it may be, its no longer a BOL. 

There are numerous possible situations that may force you out of your home. As discussed in previous posts, a fire can spread through an entire house in less than 60 seconds. With disasters such as those or earthquakes, mudslides or floods it may happen even faster. Because of this, you need to know exactly what you are doing depending on the time you have. What would you do if you leave with nothing but the clothes on your back and the loved ones you managed to pull out? what do you remove if you have just a couple minutes and what you take if you have an hour or more to load up a car before making a quick exit?

The following is a short extract from my book “Bugging Out and Relocating”, page 24

Bug Out Timing 

It is important to plan ahead of time what to do when disaster strikes. Family members should know how to evacuate the house during an emergency, what to do if the main door cannot be opened or accessed and in what specific exterior location the family will be meeting once they make it outside. Clearly identify two emergency exits in each floor and make sure everyone in the house knows about them and how to access them. For such a purpose, you may need an Escape Ladder. Everyone should know exactly what to do when a family member raises the alarm and tells everyone to get out. This should be practiced at least once a year so that all family members know how to react during an evacuation. Depending on the nature of the disaster that is forcing you to bug out, you will have more or less time to gather emergency supplies.
The guideline below is an attempt to organize that which by its very own nature is chaotic and unpredictable. Still, it will give you a better idea of what your priorities are depending on how much time you believe you have. Never overestimate how much time you have. Material goods can be replaced and the difference between leaving one minute too early and one minute too late may be the difference between life and death. Keeping gear and kits well organized will help you get more of them out when every second counts. Remember to also consider how much time you may need to evacuate the disaster are if the event is not limited to your home and immediate surroundings. You may need to cover several miles before reaching safety and you don’t know what kind of delays you may encounter. 
1>
 Gather all family members and exit the building as fast as possible. You leave with your lives and the clothes on your back. House fires and fast raising flood waters are good examples of such a case.
5 minutes
Once all family members have been accounted for and they have safely evacuated the building, grab the Bug Out Bag and Documents Bag. Grab the contents of your safe such as emergency cash, precious metals, jewelry and other family heirlooms. Most of the items kept in the safe should already be in the Documents Bag (see page 37) for quick removal. Examples of such a case are house fires, approaching wild fires, floods, terrorist attacks and nearby industrial accidents.
1 hour
In this case there is enough time to grab your BOB and Documents Bag. You can also gather more gear and supplies such as food, firearms, water, camping gear and extra clothes. If prepared ahead of time and ready to roll, it is also possible to take your trailer or caravan and have a quick word or leave a note with a trusted neighbor. Time flies when dealing with an emergency and the hour will go by sooner than expected. How well you equipment has been stored and organized will determine how much of it you will be able to gather given the time that you have. Possible examples of such a situation are mandatory evacuation ahead of a storm, foreign invasion, violent uprising.
Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: July 19, 2014, 12:06 am


 
Hi Fernando,
Congratulations on completing your new book - I just received my copy from Amazon.
I was wondering if you have any recommendations on home alarms - what should one look for in a good alarm system?
Regards,
-Cody




Hello Cody,
Thanks!
 Hope you enjoy my new book, "Bugging Out and Relocating".
An alarm system is the most important step you can take towards improving your home security. Sometimes people focus too much on guns. Guns are great, but its what you end up using when everything else fails in a worst case scenario. For passive defense nothing beats a good alarm. It’s the first thing burglars look for when selecting a potential target. 1) Alarm 
2) type of doors and lock
3) if there’s a dog
Generally in that order.  Before anything else, an alarm is a deterrent on its own. If your house is one of the few in the neighborhood with an alarm, guess which house criminals will skip? And if your house is the only one without an alarm, guess which one criminals will go for? Bottom line, you just need one.

What to get

Security systems such as ADT that require a monthly payment can be very expensive and are generally not recommended. A security system such as Simplisafe2 Home Secuirty System is also monitored and much cheaper than ADT, and they end up outsourcing to the same call centers when the alarm goes off. In general, a monitored alarm is the best way to go but even a small monthly payment does add up as times goes by. Having said that, if you can afford it, it’s worth it. This is particularly true for properties that are left unoccupied most of the time and are likely to be targeted by more dedicated criminals.
The second best option is installing a security system that while not monitored by a company, has an alarm that will call you to your cell phone. You can even install surveillance cameras so as to check your property through your cell phone. Wireless security systems are easy to install and if done so properly provide a good level of security. The disadvantage is that you will need to replace batteries on sensors, alarm and panel about once a year for most models.
When installing the system keep the following in mind:

1)Cover the main corridors and stairways with motion sensors. Sensors should be placed facing the main entry points, sweeping as much of the room as possible and minding blind spots.
2)All exterior doors on the floor level should have contact sensors installed.
3)The main panel should be close to the main entrance and fairly accessible, but placed in a location that isn’t too obvious whenever possible.
4)Burglars can get inside through windows as well, so buy additional motion sensors for rooms where valuables are kept if necessary.
5)Be very careful who you tell your alarm code to and remember that the alarm only works when you actually turn it on. Alarms with Key Fobs are more suited for people that don’t want to be bothered punching in codes every time they leave or enter the house. 

 

This would be a good basic system for the price. It includes the main console, 5 door contacts, 2 motion detectors, 2 key fobs, panic button and one interior siren.  You can program it to call you to your cell phone. You can even listen to what’s going on inside the house and play a pre-recorded message (something like, you are being filmed, the police has been notified)


This one includes main console, 10 door contacts, 3 motion detectors, 3 key fobs, interior siren, exterior siren, one panic button and uses both land line and GSM dialer and will call you if the land line is forcibly cut. You can call and talk to anyone close to the main console.
FerFAL
Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: July 17, 2014, 12:25 am
Product DetailsProduct DetailsProduct Details


Just for a few more hours, MatthewBracken is offering his Enemies Trilogy for free in Kindle.
Matt is a great guy, I have the greatest respect for him and his work, which is some of the best, most realistic survival fiction I ever came across and I cant recommend it enough.
Just go and get it, and check his other book, "Castigo Cay" a well!

FerFAL
Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: July 15, 2014, 5:58 pm
My friend over at thesurvivalistblog.net has a very interesting article on Bug Out Bags. Timing theme given the recent publishing of my new book, "Bugging Out and Relocating".
The way I see it, a Bug Out Bag is a kit that allows you to safely travel from one point to another. The exact contents will of course depend on your needs based on where you have to travel and the conditions you are likely to encounter.
FerFAL
 
July 10, 2014 By


1x1.trans Bug Out Bag: The Only Contents List You Need
Ready to get the heck out of dodge… in a hurry!
There has been a lot of talk over the years about bugging out, bug out bags, and bug out kits. The subject of “bugging out” is bound to come up in any conversation about survival preps and every survival blog has at least one article posted about how to put together a bug out bag.

Why Bug Out?

The subject of bugging out and bug out bags is a popular one and for good reason, disasters like hurricanes, earthquakes, tornadoes , flash floods or other natural disaster, could force survivors to “head for the hills” in search of safer ground.
We are constantly threatened by a series of potential disasters, both natural and man-made. It seems like we are being threatened from all sides, and sometimes, I admit to feeling like just throwing up my hands in despair and just giving up. It’s easy to give up. But I shake it off and prep harder than before. I’m funny like that…
We also face a series of potential  long-term disasters including, ecological collapse, economic collapse, agriculture disaster, war, plague, pandemic, an over oppressive government or any number of disasters that could force the need to seek safer footing or even hide-out in the hills long-term.

Bugging Out Vs. Hunkering Down

If you’ve read my article bugging out vs. hunkering down then you already know that bugging out to the hills should be your last option, when you have no other choice.
Bug out bags should be considered as a temporary survival plan or as a backup at best. You should keep in mind if you are forced to leave your home or retreat; you have essentially made yourself a refugee, which is the last thing you want during hard times.
A bug out kit will keep you alive for a few days, or weeks… then what? You had better have a way to supply your basic needs after exhausting the gear contained in your bug out bag.
Keep in mind that we are not talking about bugging out from the city to a pre set-up and well-stocked retreat in the hills, if this is your plan then you might not need a “bug out bag” since you can just load everything into your car and take off. But still having essential, life-saving gear in “bug out bags” that is ready to grab and go is a good idea if you have to abandon your vehicle and head out on foot.
It would be great if you already have a stockpile of food, medications and gear waiting for you at a mountain retreat, let’s just hope that you can  actually, get past the blocked roads, carjackers, checkpoints and other hazards that will be met along the way get there, unscathed.
If you do somehow, manage to make it through, all of the en-route hazards to your well-stocked retreat in the hills, still don’t be surprised when you’re “greeted” at the door by another family or group that has already, moved in. What would you do? They may outnumber you and be better armed… Will you walk away? Will you stay and fight for what is yours?
If at all possible, move to your retreat or relocate to a safer area now – before disaster strikes. Learn to grow your own food, raise small livestock and get to know your neighbors. I just hope that it’s not to late in the game for you to make the move. Time is running out and deep down I think that it’s already too late to relocate…

Bugging Out and Putting Together Your Bug Out Bag

Anyways, back to bugging out and how to put together a bug out bag
Some survivalist aka “preppers” look at this type of bug out kit as an “escape and evasion” bag. Where they will use the kit as a grab and go bag that will be used if they’re forced to head out to the forest and mountains to hide from danger – for most this is a flawed idea.
Living completely free of civilization, scrounging for food and shelter in the forest, mountains or desert for any significant length of time can be done, under the right conditions, by some people. But it would not be easy and the constant struggle to stay alive would be more than many could handle and most would not make it very long.
But when you’re left with no other option, besides stay and die or bug out to the hills and maybe survive a few extra days, it’s worth a try, and having a “bug out  or escape and evasion bag” ready to go will give you a better chance of making it…
The prospect of the hidden cave or dug out stocked with survival supplies should be a considered. Having a hidden cache of essential survival gear could mean the difference between death and survival if you’re forced to head for the hills.
I have several cache tubes hidden around my area, and have been working on putting in more. I will only leave my home / retreat if I have no other choice. I would rather stay and fight then run and hide, but if I have to run and hide, the hidden caches will give me a better chance of making it…
If it’s a natural disaster, where help will be on the way, but you have to leave for you immediate safety (say a hurricane is heading your way) would a friend or family member in a distant town take you in? You need to have a “disaster buddy” in another area, but still reachable in a few hours’ drive, with whom you’ve already made plans and have an agreement with, where if a disaster happens in your area that you can go to his place to wait it out and vice versa.
A government shelter, not for me thank you. I want to stay out of the FEMA camps.  And who wants to be dependent on the government for their survival anyways? Not me. But then I’m one of those “wrong-headed” Americans who would rather trust their own wits and skills than the government to take care of them after a disaster (or anytime)… They just hate that.

What You Should Have in Your Bug Out Bag

Okay, so what should be included in a bug out bag? Well that depends on you personally – you’ll have to consider things, like your location and where you’re going, your health, your skills, and time of the year. That’s why that there’s no one bug out bag list that fits all needs and individuals. But by looking at bug out bag lists that have been put together by a number of different people, we can get ideas to work with and expand our bug out bags for our personal location and needs.(continue to the rest of the article)
Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: July 14, 2014, 11:24 pm



Remember the different tools for different jobs applies to sharpeners as well. The Spyderco Sharpmaker does well with the knife you mentioned (and many others) if you keep it clean per the instructions that come with it.
The Sharpmaker is easy to use and will give you a vey sharp blade (better than new by a good margin) with little effort or time learning how to use it.
That being said if I could only have one sharpener (Not ever going to happen as I like sharp things way too much) it would be a fine grade diamond (I carry a credit card sized one in my wallet) stone since I can do many things with that very small package.
SD

Hey SD,
I like to keep it simple too. I don’t have experience with the Spyderco Sharpmaker but the Amazon reviews are excellent. These days I mostly use a Falkniven DC4 Stone and a Victorinox Sharpener.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0090R4WBC?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B0090R4WBC&linkCode=xm2&tag=surviinargen-20



The Falkniven DC4 stone works well, its compact enough and does nicely for quickly sharpening my knives. The Victorinox pen is good too, but it’s a bit harder to keep a good angle. The “V” ceramic tip of the pen works very nicely for quickly sharpening small pocket knives.
I don’t have experience with the Edge Pro Apex and the Lanski System but these are supposed to be the best ones available. They have a system by which the blade is kept in position and the stones move along a rod, keeping the desired angle for you.
 Edge Pro Apex 4 Knife Sharpener



These sharpeners aren’t cheap but the results should be as close to perfect as you can get and would make the job a lot easier for those that aren’t good at sharpening with regular stones.
FerFAL
Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: July 13, 2014, 8:09 pm

Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: July 13, 2014, 7:20 pm
 

Things are heating up in the border folks. With the growing illegal immigration problem there's a ton of social repercussions  to keep in mind, from more diseases brought from abroad, criminal activity, economic problems due to the growing numbers of unemployed and people willing to work below minimum wage to more sinister implications such as using the crisis so as to pass new emergency laws and more loss of freedom.
Interesting times.

 Showdown over immigration: 'This is an invasion'... follow link


FerFAL
Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: July 11, 2014, 9:53 pm

Maybe you can shed some light on this on your blog.  I have a Spyderco Endura, VG10 steel.  It was razor sharp out of the box, but in time the blade got dull, and I have never been able to sharpen it with my wet stone back to factory standards.  Meanwhile, I also have a Boker Magnum (looks like a Buck110 knock-off).  It’s probably some cheap stainless steel, judging from the price I paid for it, but it takes a razor sharp edge with a couple of passes on the same wet stone and it retains the edge relatively well.  So what make the VG10 steel better than say 1080, if it’s so hard to sharpen?

Jose

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Hello Jose,
The knife market is saturated with products and everyone wants the strongest and sharpest. These days, in many ways knives companies live or die depending on what a guy on youtube says. Does one knife cut 20 pieces of cardboard before failing to cut paper while another cuts 15? Guess which one ends up making the crazy sales after one of those videos hits 100.000 views.
Because of this knife companies are looking to make sharper knives, that cut better (although sometimes they sacrifice a tougher blade geometry in the process, like in the case of full flat grind knives) and hold an edge longer (although this same thing makes it much harder to sharpen). The Endura is a great knife, but I prefer the saber grin over the more fragile full flat grind.
Hardness is another hot topic. Everyone wants to have the harder knife. Joke about it but its true. “My knife is 60HRC” “Oh, yeah? Mine’s 61!”.  In the good old days a knife was simply a high carbon steel blade similar to 1055 or 1080 and hardened to 50-55HRC. It would be tough as nails, hold an edge well enough, and a breeze to sharpen.
Today, we have knife enthusiasts that can’t even sharpen a knife themselves and want a knife that holds an edge longer before sending it over to someone to sharpen it for them. That’s how we end up with knives that are too hard, even brittle and may fail catastrophically or in the best case a knife that is at least a pain to resharpen.
Answering your question, what makes VG10 is the same thing that makes it a pain to sharpen: It’s a tough steel that holds an edge well, but holding an edge well means that it has resistance to wear, that the blade material, may that be for losing the edge or for putting it back, its harder to remove.  VG10 is a high end knife steel that doesnt need resharpening often, but it will take more work to sharpen well when needed.

Spyderco Endura 4 Folding Plain Edge FRN Knife





I see this as more of an advantage in smaller blades that you want to use but you don’t want to sharpen often. For bigger knives its more of a pain, and sharpening becomes an even harder job. 1080 is a very nice, no frills high carbon steel. As you notice, its tough but not as hard as VG10. This means its easier to sharpen as well. My daily pocket knife is a  surplus German Army Knife by Victorinox. Its X55CrMo14 hardened to 56 HRC. That’s a nice balance of edge durability and ease of resharpening.  That pocket knife is a joy to use and although I use it and resharpen it often, its easy to keep razor sharp.
At the same time, my most used multitool is  a Leatherman Charge.This one has an S30V blade and like VG10  its not as easy to resharpen, but it does hold the edge longer.


FerFAL


Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: July 11, 2014, 12:16 am

Author: TheModernSurvivalist
Posted: July 9, 2014, 1:22 am




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